Sunday, March 30, 2014

HOLI MOLI


Sorry these blog posts have been few and far between recently, my to do lists are a page long every day. Life here is busy busy, but the kids are in final exams right now and then we have a two week break before starting the new school year, so things should be winding down soon. Even with the to do lists, lack of down time, early mornings, and late nights, I am so happy and am constantly reminded how lucky I am to be here…

Last week, we celebrated Holi, the Hindu festival of spring, love, and best of all, colors! I was actually introduced to this holiday a few years ago at UNC. On the first day of spring, hundreds of students gather on the quad in white t-shirts and count down 3, 2, 1 and proceed to throw colored powder and water all over each other. It was definitely a highlight of my junior and senior years, but celebrating Holi in a Hindi country this year was even cooler.

Holi is a two-day festival and we like to go all out on the 2nd day here at Kopila Valley, so Sunday we kinda took it easy. Caroline, her sister, and I put on our white t-shirts and strolled into town with a couple of older kids to get a glimpse of what this festival is all about. It was a little eerie – all the shops were closed for the holiday and the only people roaming the streets were what we called “Holi gangs” - groups of teenage boys, clutching bags of tika (color) and water guns, ready to cover the next gang they encountered. The interactions between gangs were really funny. We saw them approaching, they saw us approaching; we would meet in the middle of the road, give some sort of head nod and just begin dousing one another in color and yelling HAPPY HOLI! A few minutes into our adventures and just a few hundred feet from the house, we were already covered head to toe in red, yellow, purple, pink and blue tika!

Sunday was a good introduction to the festivities, but Monday was when things got real. Early in the morning, all of us – yes all 70+ kids, volunteers, aunties, uncles, cousins twice removed, friends claiming to somehow be related to someone – piled into the Kopila Valley School bus and drove 30 minutes to Ranigar, a little town west of Surkhet. The road was so steep and rocky, the bus stopped and we had to hike about 15 minutes down to the river carrying everything – water bottles, 100 packs of color, 4 year olds, pots, pans, plates, and enough food for the aunties to cook and feed our entire crew. The river in Ranigar was beautiful and perfect – crisp blue, water, mounds and mounds of white sand, tall mountains in the backdrop. And the best part of all? I was surrounded by 70 people that I know and love and consider my family here in Nepal. We ripped open the bags of tika and everyone went crazy throwing and smearing and chucking the tika every which way. People were ruthless and took no prisoners! Within minutes, the river was dyed red and orange and our pristine outfits were rainbow colored. We spent the afternoon swimming in the river, basking in the sun, and not caring that it would take hours to scrub the color off our skins; it was a wonderful day. The aunties and uncles prepared a delicious lunch of spicy peas and potatoes, French fries, fried vegetables, and deep-fried roti. It was so delicious and uber healthy and you wouldn’t have believed they transported all the food, chopped all the veggies, and cooked everything over an open fire right on the beach!

The sun, swimming, and hours of madness were so fun but we were pooped by the end of the day. Most of the kids fell asleep on the bus ride home and put themselves to sleep around 8pm that night and I went to sleep not too much later.  A week later, I still have some green dye in my dreads and some purple tika in my ear that seems like it will be there forever. I heard it’s good luck to keep your dye as long as possible so I don’t mind – it’s just another reminder of how wonderful this entire experience is! 

-shannon

 fellows
 ranigard
 family!


aunties cooking! 

copyright Sherry Sutton Photography

Monday, March 10, 2014

Shiva Ratri Shenanigans


Warning: Illicit drugs are referenced in this blog post. The following should not be read by anyone who is referred to as “Grandma” or “Pop.” Proceed at your own risk and please do not judge me.

Last Thursday, we observed Shiva Ratri, a Hindi holiday in which traditional followers of the faith celebrate the birthday of Shiva, the god of creation and destruction, by offering special prayers and fasting. Interestingly enough, it is also the only day where marijuana is legal in Nepal. So we celebrated accordingly…

It was pouring rain in the morning but our bus driver was also partaking in Shiva Ratri activities, so volunteers and some older kids walked in the miserable weather for an hour to the temple. So much for dressing nice for Lord Shiva, my back and legs were covered in mud and I ripped my curta (Nepali dress) on the way! Thankfully, the rain stopped and the sun came out right as we arrived. The road leading to the temple was filled with people selling juice, pakodas, and chaat – all with a pleasant green hue to it. What exactly was the wonderful green stuff inside? Bhang. Yes, as hilarious as it sounds, the word for weed in Nepal is the same as the word for a weed-smoking device in America.

bhang juice & pakodas outside the temple

We all took off our shoes before entering the temple. The ground was wet and muddy from the rain but it felt absolutely amazing in between my toes! I approached the temple and immediately people pointed at me and whispered. I was with 8 other white people, so I knew the color of my skin wasn’t causing the ruckus. Then I was pushed to the front of the line and quickly realized why everyone was staring at me.  Sitting in the center of the altar was a holy Nepali man with long, beautiful, dark dreadlocks – he and I were equally intrigued by each other’s hair styles. I posed with him for a picture, he gave me tika and a blessing and I slipped him a few rupees and marigolds as an offering. (Side note: I googled “Shiva Ratri Nepal” images the night before, and swear this dreaded man was pictured at the top!) We spent the next half an hour wandering around the temple, making offerings, and receiving more tika – it was very peaceful. Before leaving, we were given Prasad (a post-prayer snack used to honor the gods) that, of course, was filled with bhang.


my main dread man

prasad

lady volunteers in the temple


The rest of the day was glorious! On the way home, the volunteers and kids munched on bhang pakodas (fried vegetables) and giggled as some of the children became a little silly from the festivities.  We enjoyed a nice meal of chow mein at an eatery around the corner and slowly and surely started to feel the intended effects of the holiday ourselves. Becky, the mental health fellow and resident baking fellow, made some “special” brownies in honor of Shiva that the volunteers enjoyed on the roof under the sun, staring at the beautiful clouds and incredible mountains. We let the kids join us on the roof in the evening and even though they indulged in the bhang too and it’s completely legal, I blushed and couldn’t stop chuckling when the kids asked if I had eaten too much. Nevertheless, it was one of the most relaxing days I’ve had in a while. I’m so lucky to have been able to enjoy such a hilarious day with amazing people in one of the most stunning places in the world! All hail Shiva. 
view on the walk home

kiddos outside the temple

glorious rooftop view

Sunday, March 2, 2014

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MATT!


Last week was Matt's birthday. I tried to make his day as special as possible from 8000 miles away, so I solicited help from some of my buddies here. Take a look!